A street name that doesn't really roll off the tongue! |
Life in Satun
Before going into the final stages of
our adventure at the boatyard I thought it might be interesting to describe our
lives living in a Thai house. The street is quite small and
narrow with single fronted terrace houses crowding closely on to the road and
each other. The street is used as an extended living area and people have
chairs and table permanently placed right on the road ready for sitting and
socializing in the cool of the evening. The road is used as a playground for
the mobs of children riding bikes, playing volley ball and generally yelling at
the tops of their voices continually until 10 o’clock at night.
Our street |
Most houses don’t have a garden apart
from a small strip between the front fence and the road, but this is lovingly
watered and trimmed every day. Our landlady lived right across the way and we
felt that she was keeping a good watch on what we were up to, as were most of
our neighbours, I bet. There was very little English spoken and our Thai
despite my best efforts is woeful. It really puts into perspective how
important language is and how helpless you feel in an environment where you
can’t communicate on even the most basic level. I take my hat off to the
migrants who come to our country for a new start and appreciate even more the
hurdles that they have to overcome.
Our land lady tending her miniture garden. |
The house itself had a small living
room at front with a hard carved wooden lounge suite. You could be reasonable
comfortable for say, five minutes. Then there was a long passage way with two
bedrooms without windows off to the right. Some natural light comes via a sky
light in the ceiling. The beds had mattresses made from coconut fibre and as
hard as ...a coconut. There was air conditioning in the main bedroom and
because of the heat and humidity that was where we spent the majority of our
time, eating, watching movies and sleeping. Moving through the house there was
a kitchen of sorts with two tables and a fridge, then an outer room or closed
in veranda with a free standing sink. The bathroom has a pedestal toilet but no
flush, so we used a scoop to flush. The hand held cold water shower was fine
because a cool shower is all you ever wanted any way.
The kitchen sink |
Out our back door you could step over
the very smelly open drain or look out over a riot of creepers and banana
palms, tropical paradise if you ignored the plastic and glass rubbish strewn
everywhere. The back yard was home to
five or six semi feral cats and kittens, which soon discovered the cat lady in
me. I fed them once a day and soon they were trying to find their way into the
house. It took some time before they would be touched but by the end of our six
week stay they were more affectionate and looking quite healthy. I left a bag
of cat food hoping to pass the baton on to the next tenants. Poor Motley cat
didn’t like the house at all. The strange noises from our very close
neighbours, the wild cats out the back and the general heat of most of the
house kept her under the bed for most of the six weeks. As soon as she was back
on the boat you could almost see her smile!
Our cat family in the back yard |
We hired a car and the house for
about $500AU a month, and despite the standard of comfort compared to a house
in Australia it was a whole lot better than trying to live in the chaos of saw
dust and general upheaval on the boat.
House and car $500 a month |
Cooking was not part of our lives for
the six weeks in Satun. Apart from not having a stove, the food was fantastic
and very cheap. We could both eat for only a few dollars so who needs to shop, cook,
wash up and all that palaver when the options for almost free food were
available. One of our favourites was from a road side stall selling only the
best fried chicken and sticky rice in the world. KFC is not even in the
running. If we were looking for a more healthy option the local mall called, strangely
The Big C, had a food hall with yummy Thai soups and omelettes to name but a few.
If we felt like we couldn’t face another spicy or rice meal there was always On’s
Bar, an ex patriot hang out that serves pretty good western food. On can
organize anything you need in Satun. She is a friendly person who can help out
with accommodation, car and bike rental and good food.
So our days and weeks drifted past
each of us taking turn and turn about driving to the boat yard to supervise
work on the boat. Before we knew it we were packing up the house and moving
back on board our newly painted and varnished Doctor. Where would I rather be? I think you know.
Diana
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